Preheat your oven grill as high as it will go. Drizzle the hogget shoulder with oil on each side before seasoning generously with salt. Place it in a deep roasting tray and then under the grill to brown the top. Once properly caramelized, remove from the oven and set aside. Turn the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Pour 1 litre (1¾ pints) of the milk into a saucepan and warm gently until steaming but not scalded. Meanwhile, add the onion quarters, garlic halves, bay leaves and rosemary to the roasting tray. Pare the zest from both lemons with a vegetable peeler and add to the tray along with the juice of 1 whole lemon. Pour the warmed milk over the top, so the tray is filled, but the hogget shoulder is still peeking through. As chef Fergus Henderson says, you’re looking for ‘alligators floating in a swamp’. Season with salt and lots of black pepper, then cover with a sheet of baking parchment and seal completely with foil before placing in the oven for about 5 hours, until the hogget is so tender you can pull it apart with a spoon. About halfway through, have a check and top up with the remaining milk, if needed. When ready, pull the meat off the bone and mix through the molten veg and curdled gravy. Serve with buttery mash seasoned with nutmeg, ensuring everyone gets plenty of the sauce as well as some lemon zest. 2kg (4lb 8oz) grass-fed hogget shoulder a drizzle of organic rapeseed oil 1.5 litres (generous 2½ pints) organic or grass-fed whole milk 4 onions, cut into quarters 1 bulb of garlic, cut in half horizontally 10 bay leaves 5 sprigs of rosemary 2 large unwaxed lemons flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper